by Gina DePalma, Pastry Chef

TARALLI WITH ANISE AND LEMON

This month we are traveling back again to Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot. Once regarded as under-touristed, Puglia is enjoying a surge in visitors and a flurry of press attention. One of the most fascinating and diverse areas of Puglia is known as Puglia Imperiale, a reference to the reign of Emporer Frederick II of Swabia, a ruler who exerted great influence in Southern Italy and erected the amazing Castel del Monte.

In addition to excellent D.O.P. Olive Oil produced in Puglia Imperiale, local bakers make fine use of Puglia’s wheat harvest in the crunchy, delicious taralli, a specialty from the area. A refined version of an Italian pretzel, taralli are crunchy, curly-shaped biscuits that are boiled and then baked. Taralli are common to several regions of the south, but they are taken to another level in Puglia, also known as Italy’s “bread basket.”

If you have followed this column for a bit, you may remember that I first featured my taralli a few years ago, flavoring them with crushed red pepper flakes and herbs. This time around, I tried a sweeter variation, flavored with lemon zest and anise seed.

I will repeat my advice not be afraid of the wetness of the dough. Just flour your board and your hands lightly and they will roll out with ease. “00” Flour will give these biscuits a characteristic lightness, but if you cannot find it in your local gourmet or specialty shop, it is fine to make the recipe entirely with all-purpose flour

Taralli with Anise and Lemon

2 cups “00” flour
2 ½ cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons kosher salt
½ cup granulated sugar "
Freshly grated zest of 1 lemon "
2 teaspoons anise seed
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons dry white wine
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
All-purpose or additional “00” flour for dusting the bowl

Place the flour, salt, sugar, anise seed and lemon zest in the bowl of an electric mixer. Add the wine and oil and use the paddle attachment on medium speed to mix on medium speed to form a smooth dough; continue beating for 3 minutes; the dough should be firm and velvety. Lightly brush the inside of a bowl with olive oil and sprinkle it generously with some additional flour. Place the dough inside the bowl and dust the top with additional flour. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a towel and allow the dough to rest for 2 hours. You can also refrigerator the dough overnight in an airtight container; bring the dough to room temperature before proceeding with the recipe.

Preheat the oven to 375 °F. Bring about 4 quarts of water in a stock pot or dutch oven to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Season the water with 1 T. kosher salt. Cover the pot to prevent the water from evaporating. Prepare two baking sheets by lightly brushing them with olive oil and set aside. Have ready some paper towels to drain the taralli as they come out of the water.

Turn the dough out onto a floured board and knead it lightly. Divide the dough into four pieces; you will be working with one piece at a time, keeping the rest of the dough covered.

Roll the piece of the dough into a long rope, about ¾ inch in diameter and 18 inches long. Cut the rope into 4 or 5 pieces and shape them into rings, making a small knot or twist at the top. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough.

Drop the rings, one at a time, into the simmering water. The taralli will sink and then rise to the surface. Continue cooking the taralli for about 5 minutes, or until they float on the surface of the water. Gently scoop them out of the water with a slotted spoon or a Chinese skimmer, allowing them to drain for a moment in the spoon, before placing them on the paper toweling for a few moments to remove any excess water. Transfer the taralli to the baking sheets; you do not have to space them too far apart, as they will not grow while they bake.

Bake the taralli for about 25 to 30 minutes, or until they are evenly golden brown. Remove them from the oven and transfer to a rack to cool completely before storing them in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

Makes 16 to 24 taralli, depending on the size

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