Photo by Gina DePalma, Pastry Chef

Biscottini di Zeppa
By Gina DePalma

The island of Elba may be the more well-known island of Tuscany’s archipelago, but the pristine and charming Isola di Giglio can give it a run for the money any day. Surrounded by crystal blue seas and capped off by a castle-dominated hilltown, Giglio offers up a fascinating history, in turn reflected in its unique local cuisine.

Scientists have estimated that the islands off Tuscany’s coastline have been inhabited since the Stone age; most certainly we know that the Etruscans lived there, followed by the Romans. Long used as a military outpost, the island eventually morphed into an important point for commerce and the mining of granite. Popes, noble families and assorted waves of Barbarians laid claim to Giglio at one time or another until it eventually became part of the Grand-Duchy of Tuscany in the late 18 th century.

Giglio’s cooking keeps one foot planted in the Tuscan traditions and the other in the camp of dishes featuring the island’s indigenous local offerings. On the sweet side, that means almonds, figs, honey, herbs and tiny, wild berries, rice and even potatoes as featured ingredients in desserts. These cornmeal cookies, spiked with almonds, golden raisins, anise seed and a touch of lemon essence are reminiscent of Zeppa, a sweet polenta cake traditionally served on Giglio.

Biscottini di Zeppa

1 cup golden raisins
2 tablespoons Vin Santo
1 ½ cups sliced, blanched almonds
1 ½ teaspoons whole anise seed
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ cup polenta
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 large eggs
1 large egg, separated
½ cup sugar
grated zest of 1 lemon
6 tablespoons (3 oz.) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and position a rack in the center. Lightly grease a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

Place the raisins in a small bowl and toss them with the Vin Santo and set aside.

Spread the almonds and anise seeds evenly on a baking sheet and toast them in the oven until they are light golden brown and aromatic, about 12 minutes. Remove them from the sheet to cool.

In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, polenta, baking powder, baking soda and salt together to combine them thoroughly.

Place the eggs, egg yolk and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat together for a minute. Beat in the butter and lemon zest briefly to combine.

Add the dry ingredients to the bowl and beat to moisten them, then add the almonds and anise seeds and beat to form clumpy dough. Add the raisins and their liquid and beat until the dough comes together.

Divide the dough in half and with lightly floured hands, shape it into two logs about two inches wide and 14 inches long, evenly spaced, on the prepared baking sheet. Lightly beat the reserved egg white and use a pastry brush to glaze the surface of the logs.

Bake the logs for 14 to 16 minutes, or until they are firm to the touch, lightly brown and cracked. Remove the sheet from the oven and allow the logs to cool completely on the baking sheet. Lower the oven temperature to 225 degrees.

When the logs are cooled, slice the biscotti into ½ inch oblongs. Rearrange them on the baking sheet, cut side up. Toast the biscotti until they are dried and crisp, about 20 to 25 minutes. Allow them to cool completely on the baking sheet. Store in an airtight container for up to two weeks.

Makes about 40 cookies

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