 |
    
| ||||
RECIPE OF THE MONTH INGREDIENT OF THE MONTH BABBO MENU |
DOLCI |
 by Gina DePalma, Pastry Chef THIS MONTH Crema Fritta I have a cast-iron frying pan that belonged to my mother, which is an exact duplicate of a frying pan my grandmother used for nearly every meal she prepared. Italians enjoy almost anything fried in good virgin olive oil, sweet or savory. Whenever I use my frying pan, I think of the many treats my mother and grandmother would fry up for us kids on the weekends. Tiny meatballs, vegetable fritters, cenci and zeppole, just to name a few. Crema fritta falls into that same category. It is a dessert or snack treat that you are unlikely to find at any restaurant, because it is a true example of the cooking of Nonna. Crema fritta is literally translated to fried cream. I don’t know about you, but the mere pairing of the word “fried” with the word “cream” name makes me happy. Granted, it sounds a bit odd, but it is really quite simple: make a thick pastry cream with milk, sugar, egg yolks, flour and some flavorings, cool it, cut it into shapes, roll it in breadcrumbs and fry it golden brown and crispy-delicious. This treat is a specialty of the Veneto region, but as with so many other dishes, you will find similar versions in the southern regions of Italy as well. Kids love it too - not only can they help roll it in breadcrumbs, it is completely transportable. They key to the ultimate enjoyment of crema fritta is not to over-think it, or inject it with fancy ingredients or methodology. Like so many other traditional Italian dishes, it has withstood the test of time because it was perfect to begin with. About the only departure I have taken is the use of some orange zest and vanilla. Otherwise, think as nonna would – use fresh milk and eggs, make breadcrumbs from a loaf of stale, sturdy Italian bread, and fry in virgin olive oil – not the extra-virgin you would use for salads, but a good-quality, everyday virgin olive oil. (The more “gourmet” approach to fried foods is to use flavorless oil, like canola or sunflower, but remember, Italians like the flavor of olive oil) Make this for your family as a surprise treat on a lazy Saturday afternoon, and you will send them to a little corner of heaven. Crema Fritta 2 cups whole milk ¼ cup plus 1 T. sugar pinch salt grated zest of 1 orange 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract 1 cup all-purpose flour 4 eggs, separated About 2 cups breadcrumbs, preferably made from sturdy Italian bread Good-quality virgin olive oil for frying Confectioner’s sugar for dusting 1. Place the milk, ¼ cup sugar, a pinch of salt, orange zest and vanilla in a sauce pan and begin heating on low heat. 2. Measure the flour into a medium bowl and set aside. In another bowl, whisk the egg yolks with 1 Tablespoon of sugar. 3. When the milk comes to a boil, remove it from the heat and whisk half of it into the egg yolks, then add that mixture back to the pot and whisk well. This is known as “tempering” the yolks to prevent them from overcooking. 4. Whisk the milk/yolk mixture into the bowl of flour, whisking vigorously and thoroughly to remove any lumps. Place the pot over low heat again and continue whisking until you the mixture thickens nicely. 5. If you have a marble countertop, you can pour the crema directly onto it. Or pour it onto a cookie sheet, lightly greased with a bit of butter or olive oil. Use a spatula to spread it into an even layer about an inch or so thick. Immediately press some plastic wrap onto the surface of the cream to prevent a skin from forming and allow it to cool on the counter, or place the cookie sheet in the refrigerator to chill. In the meantime, place the breadcrumbs in a shallow dish. 6. When the crema is completely cool use a sharp knife to cut it into shapes, such as diamonds or triangles or finger-length rectangles. Lightly beat the egg whites with a fork until they are foamy. Dip the cream shapes into the whites to coat, then roll them in the breadcrumbs to coat evenly. 7. Heat about ½-inch of olive oil in a heavy skillet, and fry the crema shapes until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towels, and dust with confectioner’s sugar. Makes 20-24 pieces, depending on the size. |
|
||
