Fregolotta

Italians have a fondness for crumbly, porous textures when it comes to sweets. As often as I repeat this mantra to our customers and my staff, it is still something that is hard for many American’s to grasp. We tend to think of dessert as being something soft, oozy, gooey, and rich. And while there are certainly plenty of Italian dolci that lean in the direction of soft and moist, every region of Italy has an array of crunchy, drier-textured sweets that are deeply woven into the local cuisine.

The reason why is simple: dry, crumbly textures are perfectly partnered with local wines and spirits. They are also easy to prepare and store, which was especially necessary in leaner times when rich ingredients like milk and cream weren’t so readily available. Take for example, the classic Tuscan pairing of crunchy Cantucci di Prato with local Vin Santo. Many such biscotti and torte take advantage of the local abundance of nuts, such as hazelnuts, almonds and walnuts, which provide a touch of additional sweet richness.

In the Veneto, the same theory is played out in the Vicenza province, in the form of a crumbly, cracker-like confection known as Fregolotta. In Bassano del Grappa, where some of the region’s finest grappas are produced Fregolotta is a favorite treat to enjoy with a glass of the local acquavite.

Made with fragrant almonds and perfumed with a bit of lemon zest, Fregolotta is almost like a large, slightly sweet cracker. The texture is slightly chewy, thanks to a bit of polenta, another revered ingredient of the Veneto. A food processor makes this recipe come together in a snap. I think the best way to enjoy this, of course, is with a glass of the best grappa from the Veneto, along with some fresh cherries, which are a special crop of Vicenza.

Fregolotta

¾ cup sliced, blanced almonds
1 cup all-purpose flour
1Tablespoon instant polenta or finely ground cornmeal
¼ cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 oz. unsalted butter, cold and cubed, plus additional butter for greasing the pan
2 large egg yolks
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 Tablespoon grappa
Finely grated zest of 1 large lemon

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-inch round cake pan generously with butter and set aside.

Place the almonds, flour, polenta, sugar and salt in a food processor and process until the almonds are finely ground, about 30 seconds. Add the cubed butter and pulse until it disappears into the dry ingredients.

In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, olive oil, vanilla, grappa and lemon zest. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and pulse until the mixture forms crumbs and is evenly moistened.

Press the crumbs firmly and evenly into the bottom of the cake pan. Bake the Fregolotta for 15 to 20 minutes, or until it is golden brown and firm to the touch.

Allow the Fregolotta to cool completely in the pan, then carefully unmold it. To serve, break it into large pieces and enjoy with a glass of wine or grappa.

Makes 10 to 12 servings

Go To Dolci Archives