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RECIPE OF THE MONTH INGREDIENT OF THE MONTH BABBO MENU |
DOLCI |
 by Gina DePalma, Pastry Chef THIS MONTH FRUITS OF FRIULI From the Alps in the West to the sea in the East, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is a tiny region with a huge identity. Marked by an uneasy history and a culture that borrows from its numerous borders with Slovenia, Austria and Croatia, the cuisine reflects these diverse influences and terrain. Stone fruits are a source of particular pride among Friulian farmers, and are an integral part of the local cooking. Fruits often appear in numerous savory dishes, as Friulian cooks have long recognized the endless possibilities presented by the abundance of peaches, plums and figs, cherries and apricots, apples and pears. Native farmers of Friuli-Venezia Giulia are acutely aware of the particular climate and topography of individual micro-regions, and how those characteristics are perfectly suited to cultivate a variety of magnificent fruits. The Italian/Slovenian border region of Collio originally produced cherries that were prized throughout Europe. As viticulture began to dominate the area, the cherry trees were cut down to make room for grapes, a crop of higher value to farmers as world-class winemaking began to prosper in the latter half of the last century. Cherry trees are still present in smaller numbers, producing their exquisite crop for local consumption in Friuli’s hotels, restaurants and homes. In Carso, bees are released among cherry blossoms to produce a unique, ethereal honey that is almost exclusively for local consumption. Cormons is another area known for producing the finest stone fruits grown in Europe. Succulent apricots and plums, as well as cherries, grapes and figs from Cormons were prized for their complexity and uniquely fragrant sweetness. In Carnia, apples and pears are abundant, and appear in desserts, such as Austro-Hungarian influenced strucolo, or strudel, as well as in sweet omelets, and alongside gnocchi, polenta and risotto. Berries from the plains are used in sauces and made into intense fruit preserves and heady vinegars. Nowhere is the mark of Friulian fruit more visible than in production of distillates. They range from rustic, homemade versions produced by local farmers, to the elegant grappas produced by the Nonino family. Slivowitz, is a popular distillate made from local plums and consumed not only in Friuli but in neighboring Slovenia, Austria, Hungary and Serbia. Friulia Venezia-Giulia exports many of its products to the rest of the world – delicate Prosciutto San Danielle, the finest roasted espresso beans from Illy and Cremcaffe, rich and nutty Montasio cheese, not to mention some of the finest wines produced in Italy. The bounty of their fruit harvest, however, is harder to find on this side of the Atlantic. The best substitutes will most likely be found at your local farm stand. |
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