by Gina DePalma, Pastry Chef

Gorgonzola, Piquant And Sweet

Our trip to Novara in Piemonte this month, I can’t resist momentarily turning my attention away from the sweets and towards my second obsession, Italian cheese. It is impossible to do otherwise, because Novara is one of the provincial homes of Gorgonzola, and well, Gorgonzola is magnificent. And even though it is more commonly known as a cheese of Lombardia, where it originated, the seat of the consortium that governs its production is located in Novara.

Blue cheeses are little hard to love if you have a delicate palate; they can be strong, salty and even taste a bit ammoniated. And then there’s the whole thing about eating mold that you must wrap your head around. But, please, trust me when I say that Gorgonzola just might change your mind.

There are two faces to Gorgonzola: Piccante and Dolce. Piccante is also referred to as Gorgonzola di Montagne, or Mountain Gorgonzola, and Dolce is often identified as Cremificato. Both are made with 100 percent cow’s milk, and, you guessed it, Gorgonzola Piccante is strong and piquant, while Cremificato Dolce is mild, creamy and (almost) sweet.

Before we talk about what makes them different, let’s focus on what both versions share in common. Both owe their blue veining to a particular strain of bacteria, Penicillium roqueforti, which is added to milk when the cheese is being made. It is a common misconception that blue mold is “injected” into the cheese, but in actuality, it is the introduction of air into the ageing process that causes the blue veining to develop. Long copper needles are inserted into the cheeses at a specific point in the process, which triggers the growth of the flavorful mold.

Although Gorgonzola Piccante and Gorgonzola Dolce share their bacterial friend in common, they are actually quite different from each other. Mountain Gorgonzola is firmer, with a greater amount of blue veining. It is firm in texture, but melts into creamy finish on the tongue. After the first spicy, pungeant hit, the flavor reveals a nutty, buttery quality that always makes me long for yet another morsell. My favorite way to enjoy it is with warm semolina bread, drizzled with chestnut honey, and accompanied with some toasted walnuts.

Gorgonzola Cremificato Dolce is moist, soft and almost pudding-like, the result a higher moisture content and larger curd. The blue veining is subtle and feathery, with a softer, gentler flavor. It is glistening and creamy, perfect for melting into warm pasta, perhaps with some freshly chopped mint. Honey works well here, too, but a milder honey such as acacia or millifiori will make a better partner. I adore Gorgonzola Dolce with fresh pears, or cherries, or even sweet peaches.


Gorgonzola Dolce:  soft, creamy and mild

Which one should you try? I say try them both, and love them both. A side-by-side tasting will make for the best comparison of texture, aroma and flavor, and from there you can decide which will become your favorite. For me, no assortment of cheese, Italian or otherwise, is complete with a bit of Gorgonzola, to tantalize the palate and stir the senses. Buon Appetito!

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