By Gina DePalma

Pan Nociato from Umbria

Umbria is a region that enjoys its pastas, roasted meats, lake fish and black truffles more than baked goods and sweets. There are only a few, very specific and traditional cakes, cookies and breads that come from the villages and cities of this region, known as Italy’s “green heart,” but together they form a stellar lineup.

One of my favorites is Pan Nociato, a bread or small roll made with wine, walnuts, grated pecorino cheese and raisins. It is found throughout the region, but the version made around the small town of Todi is particularly yummy. It is one of those breads that is rich with flavor and only faintly sweet, which makes it perfect for enjoying with an assortment of salumi, maybe some fresh, young cheese, and a glass of wine.

Don’t be daunted by the number of ingredients; this bread comes together effortlessly once you have everything gathered and ready to go. What I love the most about it is that the red wine stains the dough so that looks almost like a whole-grain bread, but the texture is still soft and giving. You can use any good red wine, but the logical step would be to borrow the nip for the recipe from the bottle you’ll later enjoy with the finished product. This is the perfect recipe to share with friends; it yields three plump loaves that can be part of a gift of cheese and wine.

Pan Nociato

1 package of active dry yeast
1 ¼ cups warm water
3 ½ cups unbleached, all-purpose flour
½ cup golden raisins
¾ cup red wine
1 large egg
2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
2 Tablespoons granulated sugar
3-4 ounces of aged pecorino cheese, finely grated
1 cup walnut pieces, toasted, cooled and chopped
1/3 cup pine nuts, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 egg for wash

In a medium bowl, dissolve the yeast in ¾ cup of warm water; add a pinch of sugar to the bowl and let it bubble up for a few minutes. Whisk in ½ cup of the flour. Cover the sponge with plastic wrap and let it proof for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the raisins and red wine in a small saucepan over medium heat just until the wine begins to simmer. Turn off the heat and let the raisins plump in the wine as it cools.

When the sponge has proofed, scrape it into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Add the remaining ½ cup of water, the raisins and wine, the egg and the extra-virgin olive oil and mix briefly on low speed to combine and break up the egg. Add the flour, salt and sugar to the bowl and mix on medium speed to form a soft dough. Add the cheese, nuts and rosemary to the bowl and beat again for about a minute, then switch to the dough hook. Knead the bread on medium speed for about 3 to 4 minutes until the dough has formed a ball and is somewhat glossy and elastic.

Remove the dough from the mixer bowl and place it on a floured board. Dust it lightly with flour and continue to knead by hand for 2 to 3 minutes until the dough is springy, elastic and smooth.

Place the dough in a bowl oiled with extra-virgin olive oil, cover with plastic and allow it to rise in a warm, draft-free spot for 1 hour, until it is tripled in bulk.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Gently deflate the dough and divide it into three equal pieces. Form each piece into a tight ball, and place on a baking sheet that has been sprinkled with a bit of cornmeal. Cover the dough balls with plastic and allow them to rise for 20-30 minutes, or until almost doubled in bulk. Gently score the tops with an “X.” Beat the egg lightly with a tablespoon of water and brush the breads with the egg wash.

Bake the breads for about 10 minutes, then lower the heat of the oven to 325 degrees and continue to bake until they are an even, deep golden brown and sound hollow when tapped lightly, about 20 to 30 more minutes.

The breads are best enjoyed after they have cooled completely, and will keep, wrapped for 3 or more days.

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