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was perusing the aisles of a gourmet store with a close friend
a few weeks ago when we happened upon a display of saffron.
A few of the tiny strands were contained in a tiny glass vial,
and the price tag revealed that the 1-gram size was on sale
for the bargain price of $13.99. My friend stared for a moment,
snorted, and moved on. I sighed. There was too much to explain
to her about the wonders of saffron and the window had, rather
sadly, been slammed shut by what seemed like a ridiculous
price tag.
The price
of saffron becomes much less shocking when armed with a bit
more knowledge about this exotic spice, and our website journey
this month to San Gimignano in the heart of Tuscany makes
it all the more timely to take a quick lesson in Saffron 101.
San Gimignano has a proud history linked to saffron, which
began in the Middle Ages and continues to this very day. But
first, we need to learn more about the exotic and wonderful
product.
Saffron,
or Zefferano in Italian, is perhaps the most precious and
expensive spice produced in the world. Saffron threads are
actually filaments, specifically the dried stigmas of a particular
flower, the Crocus Sativus Linneaus. These stigmas are the
female sex organ of the flower, and each flower contains only
three of them. The stigmas must be carefully harvested by
hand only, and to further complicate matters, harvesting can
only take place in the morning, before the heat of the sun
causes the flowers to wither. Taking into account that it
takes 75,000 flowers to make one pound of saffron threads,
the price starts to make a bit more sense. The good news is
that pure, true saffron is used in only the tiniest of amounts.
A 1⁄4-ounce or 1 gram can actually go a long way in
your kitchen.
The stigmas
of the magical Crocus Sativus Linneaus contain a number of
chemical compounds that give saffron its uniquely powerful
properties. Crocin is the primary carotenoid-type pigment
responsible for the bright orange-yellow color of saffron.
Also present are specific essential oils, which contribute
the slightly bitter flavor and heady aroma. As un-exciting
as the science of saffron may be, it is important to understand
that the quality and even the authenticity of saffron are
determined by these very factors. In the end, it is the intensity
of saffron and the context in which it is sold which should
serve as a guide; there are many ways for the unscrupulous
to con the consumer. In some cases, the flavorless male sex
organ of the flower is harvested rather than the female.
Another
ruse is to dye grass threads to mimic the outward appearance
of saffron threads. Unfortunately, since many people are unfamiliar
with the true flavor of saffron, they do not realize that
they have purchased a fake or inferior product. Saffron holds
the title of being the most expensive spice in the world,
so if it seems like the price too good to be true, it probably
is. Furthermore, no self-respecting merchant would sell saffron
in any other form than the whole threads. Anything labeled
“saffron powder” or ground saffron should be avoided.
Saffron is cultivated along a large swath of geography, stretching
from the Western Mediterranean, across the Middle East to
India. Many of the saffron-producing countries, however, do
not export their harvest, though that situation is ever changing.
The largest producers of saffron exported to the West are
Spain and Iran. Iran has actually exceeded Spain in terms
of world saffron production, which is a mind-boggling 300
tons per year total, but the persistent and serious geo-political
situation in that part of the world prevent it from being
exported successfully. Spanish saffron is the most accessible
saffron and is of extremely high quality. As such, it is the
most common to American consumers as well food professionals.
Which
brings us to the saffron of San Gimignano. While it may be
harder to find here in America than Spanish saffron, it still
has a captivating history and exciting future to be explored.
The cultivation and harvesting of saffron outside the ancient
city walls of San Gimignano dates back to the 13th Century.
As early as 1200 A.D. there is documentation of saffron exported
from San Gimignano to Eastern and African countries, one of
the few products to flow out of Italy at that time rather
than the reverse. The trade of saffron was so successful for
several prominent families of San Gimignano, it helped to
finance the construction of their famous towers, the ruins
of which remain to this day as emblems of this proud hilltop
city. Saffron was used not only in cooking, but also as a
pigment to color paints for artists and as a dye for cloth
merchants. It was also believed to have powerful medicinal
properties.
The history
of the saffron of San Gimignano is tied to the history of
the city itself. During the height of the city’s power
as regional force, saffron was actually used as currency,
reward, and even ransom. San Gimignano’s decline came
in the 14th century, when it was eventually brought under
the rule of the Duchy of Florence. The decline of the saffron
trade came a bit later, around 1600. Thanks to the interest
in Italian cuisine and culture, modern gastronomy had led
to its recent resurgence in production. Today, Zafferano di
San Gimignano is used throughout Italy and is even slowly
being exported in small quantities to other countries. In
2003, the consortium of growers applied to the European Union
for DOP status, which was granted in February of 2005. It
is hoped that the continuing of dedication of the producers
will demonstrate the superiority of their harvest and allow
the world export market to accept them at levels to enable
competition with the major producers from other countries.
Saffron
is used in many classic Italian dishes, the most well known
being Risotto all Milanese (ironically, a dish from the glittering
city of Milan in Lombardia). Locally, it can be found in many
Tuscan dishes, flavoring pasta dough, soups, sauces for meats
and fish, even in gelato. To extract flavor from the threads,
they are soaked in water or milk, and the intensely flavored
liquid is then added to the dish. If the dish includes a liquid,
such as the stock for risotto, or, in the case of the recipe
below, milk or cream, the saffron can simply be infused into
the recipe’s measurement.
I love
the penetrating flavor and sunny color saffron bestows upon
a dish, and when I was designing the opening menu for Babbo,
something in my head kept whispering, “Saffron Panna
Cotta.” I wasn’t sure if it would work, but it
appeared on my first menu and has been a staple ever since.
Saffron is a tricky sell sometimes. People who are not used
to the flavor may be wary, but I find that it marries well
with the creamy texture of the dessert, as well as with the
fresh fruit I often pair it with. My recipe for the very same
Saffron Panna Cotta we serve at Babbo every day appears in
The Babbo Cookbook. This month, celebrate the history of San
Gimignano with it.
Saffron
Panna Cotta
3 1/3 cups heavy cream
3⁄4 cup sugar
Zest of 1 lemon or orange
3⁄4 teaspoon saffron threads
1⁄2 tablespoon powdered gelatin
1 cup whole milk
1.In a
medium saucepan, combine the cream, sugar, lemon or orange
zest and saffron threads. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring
gently, then remove from the heat. Let the mixture rest for
ten minutes to develop the flavor and color.
2. Stir
the powdered gelatin into the cream mixture until it dissolves.
Strain the mixture through a fine-meshed sieve, then stir
in the milk.
3. Pour
the mixture into chilled dessert cups or wine glasses. If
desired, the panna cotta may be unmolded by running the tip
of a knife around the edge of the cup, dipping the cup quickly
into hot water, and gently shaking the custard onto a plate.
Serve with fresh fruit.
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