Photo by Gina DePalma, Pastry Chef

Sfrappe (Fried Pastry Ribbons)
by Gina DePalma, Executive Pastry Chef

I love that Italians adore all things fried unabashedly and without guilt. The secret is moderation, along with using top-quality ingredients and adding a dash of whimsy. This is especially true in the case of crisp, fried bits of a simple, egg pastry that are enjoyed from region to region with different monikers. Most often, you’ll find them called cenci, literally translated as “rags,” irregularly cut and twisty. Other aliases include zacarette (shavings), nastrini (ribbons), and my favorite, bugie (lies).

In Marche, these tasty treats are known as sfrappe, which in Marchese dialect means fringes. What sets them apart from other versions is the subtle bit of flavoring from lemon zest and a bit ground anise seed. They are especially enjoyed during Carnevale celebrations, just before the Lenten season begins, but really, there’s no bad time of year for fried dough.

Feel free to remain true to the name and shape these into ribbons; I like to use a fluted cutter, as if they were cut with pinking shears. All that is needed to enjoy them is a dusting of powdered sugar. Eat them hot, right out of the oil, when the aroma and flavor is at its peak.

Sfrappe (Fried Pastry Ribbons)
By Gina DePalma

1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground anise seed
Zest of ½ a large lemon, finely grated
3 large eggs
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick, 2 oz.) unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Olive Oil for frying
About ½ cup additional flour for kneading
Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, anise seed and lemon zest.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, use the paddle attachment on medium speed to beat the eggs with the butter, granulated sugar, confectioners’ sugar and vanilla until combined; the mixture will appear somewhat curdled. Add the dry ingredients and beat to form a soft dough. Turn the mixture onto a floured board, and using up to ½ cup additional flour, knead until the dough is smooth and just firm enough to roll, about 1 minute. Do not allow the dough to become elastic; it should remain very soft and smooth.

Divide the dough into 3 pieces. Work with one piece at a time, keeping the other two pieces wrapped and in the refrigerator. Have ready a parchment-lined baking sheet, lightly dusted with flour, upon which to lay the rolled sfrappe.

Lightly dust your work surface, rolling pin, and the dough with flour. Roll the dough to a thickness of about 1/16th of an inch. Using a fluted pastry cutter, cut the dough into ribbons, about 6 to 8 inches long and ¾ -inch wide. Lay the ribbons onto the flour-dusted baking sheet, keeping them covered with plastic wrap as you continue to roll out and cut the dough.

When all of the dough has been cut, heat 4 to 6 cups, or 6 inches of olive oil in a heavy-bottomed stock pot or countertop fryer to 360 °F. Fry the strips, 4 or 5 at a time, taking care not to overcrowd the pan. The sfrappe should be puffed and lightly golden brown on each side. Drain the sfrappe on paper towels briefly, then dust them generously with confectioners’ sugar on both sides. They are best served immediately.

Makes 24 or more sfrappe , depending upon the size

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