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| by
David Lynch, Wine Director
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| THIS
MONTH: LIGURIA |
The little crescent
of rocky, woodsy, often impassable land that is Liguria is not
exactly the most hospitable place for vines. There are only
a few routes into Liguria from Piedmont to the north, since
the border between the two regions is a densely forested stretch
of Maritime Alps. Most of us think of seaside resorts like Portofino
when we think of Liguria, but of course the coastline here is
a mere sliver within a sliver. Most coastal villages in Liguria,
especially those at the more precipitous eastern half of the
region, are not so much alongside the sea but rather clinging
to the cliffs above it. The best examples are the tiny towns
of the Cinque Terre, which can only be accessed by boat.
Vine-growing in Liguria is a tough proposition. It is so impossibly
hilly that olive groves are much more common (olive groves are
easier to maintain in these conditions than vines). In fact,
olive trees outnumber vines by about 5-to-1 in Liguria, and
the region is surely more famous for its exquisitely aromatic
oils than it is for its scattered lot of wines. But, as with
every other region of Italy, there are plenty of vinous gems
to be found. You just need to know where to look.
My suggestion is to look for wines bearing the Riviera Ligure
di Ponente DOC, preferably those made from the herbal, tangy
Vermentino grape. The Riviera Ligure di Ponente appellation
is a relatively large swath of vineyards west of Genoa, and
Vermentino is definitely the star variety. The whites of Cinque
Terre may be more famous, but the Ligure di Ponente wines tend
to be more serious -- and Vermentino is the reason.
Vermentino is also grown all down the Tuscan coast and out on
Sardegna, and in Liguria, as elsewhere, the grape absorbs the
flavors of its place like few others. There’s a sagey, minty,
underbrush-y note to Vermentino that immediately brings to mind
the mácchia (scrub-brush) on the Mediterranean coast. This masochistic
grape loves super-hot, dry, rocky conditions, and Liguria has
all three. You’ll also find Ligurian whites made from a lesser-known
grape called Pigato, although I find it to be slightly less
aromatic (and as such less interesting) than Vermentino. Many
people think Vermentino and Pigato are essentially the same
grape. They definitely taste a lot alike.
Here are two great Ligurian Vermentinos that always have a spot
on our list, vintage after vintage. Try one with Mario’s Black
Tagliatelle with Pea Pesto and Mint, and you’ll be hooked on
this very Mediterranean grape.
Vermentino Ligure di Ponente “U Munte,” Colle dei Bardellini
2001
Surprisingly fleshy and fruity for a Ligurian Vermentino, but
with all those hallmark aromatic notes of fennel, sage, even
mint. Made by the Sola family, who also own the terrific Enoteca
Sola in Genoa.
Vermentino Ligure di Ponente, Tenute Giuncheo 2000
Sharper and spicier than the Bardellini wine, and more evocative
of the woodsy inland expanses of Liguria: the wine geek descriptor
“forest floor” always leaps to mind when I taste this wine.
Forgive the dorkiness, but that’s what it smells like.
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To
purchase any of these wines, visit
Italian Wine Merchants online or in
New York City, just off Union Square! |
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