For wine lovers, Piedmont is to Italy what Burgundy is
to France-a place where every vineyard is charted and graded
based on its relationship to the sun; a place where the farmer/winemaker
is still very much in evidence; a place where the food and
wine is infused with the scent of the earth. Headlining the
incredible array of Piedmont wines are the ethereal reds of
Barolo and Barbaresco, which in great vintages are quite simply
some of the most best, longest-lived red wines in the world.
But Piedmont is not limited to Barolo and Barbaresco-in fact,
it may be Italy’s most “complete” wine region, boasting such
a dazzling array of grape varieties and wine styles that it
would take a website unto itself to do justice to them all.
Here are two Piedmontese favorites that represent the “new
generation” in Piedmont winemaking, fusing time-honored tradition
with modern-day technique.
Gavi di Gavi
“Etichetta Gialla,” Villa Sparina 2000
The Gavi DOCG zone, located in the southeastern-most corner
of Piedmont, is well-known, at least in name, to American
wine drinkers. But well-respected? Most people think of Gavi
as a light, simple white for sipping with seafood or prosciutto-and
that’s about it. Is “Gavi” a grape? Where’s Gavi from? Even
some longtime Gavi drinkers might be hard-pressed to say.
Well, first of all, Gavi is a place-the grape in the wine
is cortese, which is characterized by an appley perfume and
a chalky texture on the palate. This Gavi, from the increasingly
popular Villa Sparina estate, tacks on a little more ripeness
and heft to the traditionally lean Gavi frame. Fruity and
fragrant, it certainly shines with fish but might well be
used with even heartier foods.
Langhe Rosso
“Segreto,” Cascina Ebreo 1998
Because Barolo and Barbaresco can be a little earthy and tannic
for some consumers, many producers throughout the Piedmont
region are making blended wines in a more plush, soft, super-concentrated
“international” style. This wine is one of the better examples
around of this new generation of “super-Piemonte” reds: A
blend of nebbiolo (the base grape of Barolo & Barbaresco)
and barbera, “Segreto” is a dense and inky red that won’t
settle for anything less than a rich braised shortrib or a
well-marbled steak. A powerhouse wine from an up-and-coming
producer! Look for it on our list this month.
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