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I noted when we profiled Rome’s home state of Lazio a few
months back, the cluster of wine zones just south of the city--headlined
by the much-maligned Frascati--are starting to become more
than just mass-producers of cheap vino bianco. Frascati and
its neighboring wine towns comprise a zone known as the Castelli
Romani, so named because its volcanic hills and crater-lakes
were once a summer retreat for Roman nobles. The soils, altitudes,
and microclimates in the area make for good wine-growing conditions,
but for the most part the wines of Frascati, Marino and the
rest of the Castelli Romani have been more about quantity
than quality; since producers could (and still can) sell anything
they make to the tourists in Rome, why not stretch production
and sell a little more?
Frascati and most of the other whites of the Castelli Romani
are made from a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes. The
latter is more interesting than the former, but the former,
which has a fairly light, neutral flavor, is one of the most
prolific vines in all of Italy. As such, most Frascati blends
have been dominated by Trebbiano. Without the floral, orange
blossom aromatics and peachy fruit of the Malvasia grape,
Frascati is likely to be a pretty lame wine.
However, as in so many other corners of Italy, the producers
in the Frascati area are doing more and more with their considerable
natural gifts. In addition to limiting production and trying
to extract a little more character from Trebbiano and especially
Malvasia, some producers are introducing other varieties (like
chardonnay and viognier) in small percentages to further up
the ante. The law only allows up to 10 percent of "other"
grapes in the Frascati blend, but whether it’s parking or
winemaking, laws are really only "suggestions" in Italy.
The long and short of this is that there are any number of
Frascati wines you might really enjoy drinking now. On our
list at Babbo I regularly feature the wines of Villa Simone,
owned by Rome’s best-known enoteca owner, Piero Costantini,
and of Castel de Paolis, whose proprietors are stretching
the limits of Frascati with the addition of the fat and aromatic
viognier in the blend.
Just a few minutes west and south of Frascati is the town
of Marino, home to my favorite Lazio wine estate, Colli Picchioni.
This small winery is owned by the lovable Paola DiMauro and
her son, Armando, and while they make a terrific Marino Bianco
with lots of Malvasia character their premier wine is a red
blend called Vigna del Vassalo, which combined cabernets sauvignon
and franc with merlot. Paola, a great friend of Joe Bastianich’s
mother, Lidia, is a legendary Roman cook and has taught a
number of New York chefs a thing or two about Roman cuisine.
Vigna del Vassalo is as elegant as the lady who makes it.
Yet while there are an increasing number of local wines to
drink while you’re in Rome, the distinguishing characteristic
of this city is that, unlike in other major cities such as
Florence and Venice, you can find all of Italy--not just the
local stuff--on Roman wine lists. Moreover, the city is packed
with great wine bars, most of them boasting impressively fat
wine lists for you to explore.
Here’s a list of wine bars and wine-focused restaurants to
check out on your next visit. The majority of these are located
in the Centro Storico or Trastevere, so it’s not impossible
to visit two or three in a day, as I am apt to do.
CUL DE SAC
Piazza di Pasquino, 73 Tel: 06-688-01094
Literally a few steps off the Piazza Navona. A cramped little
osteria where they hang nets over the tables to keep the thousands
of bottles from falling on you (servers often must use those
deli-style grabbers to get wines off of high shelves).
DEL FRATE
Via degli Scipioni, 118 Tel: 06-323-6437
Probably my favorite: Located in the Prati neighborhood north
of the Vatican, this wine bar/wine shop is sleek, hip and
loaded with high-end choices. A monster list, and some very
good food to complement it, including better than 30 cheeses.
ENOTECA COSTANTINI/RISTORANTE SIMPOSIO
Piazza Cavour, 16 Tel: 06-320-3575 (wine shop) / 06-321-1502
(restaurant) Fax: 06-321-3210 www.pierocostantini.it
An unbelievable wine store, with a rather fancy restaurant
attached.
ENOTECA IL GOCCETTO
Via dei Bianchi Vecchi, 14 Tel: 06-686-4268
Cool, small, and resolutely local. A real proprietor-driven
place, with a list of wines by the glass on a chalkboard and
just a few appetizers to nibble.
FERRARA
Via del Moro, 1/A - Piazza Trilussa, 41 Tel: 06-583-33920
A slick and stylish restaurant in Trastevere, with an encyclopedic
list.
GUSTO
Piazza Augusto Imperatore, 9 - Via della Frezza, 23 Tel: 06-322-6273
Kind of trendy, with a pizzeria on one level and a more formal
ristorante on the second. But what a wine list.
L'ANGELO DIVINO
Via dei Balestrari, 12 Tel: 06-686-4413
Another true wine bar of the more humble variety. Just off
the Campo dei Fiori market.
AL BRIC
Via del Pellegrino 51 Tel: 066879533
Not far from Il Goccetto. A serious-minded osteria with a
huge and well-chosen wine selection.
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