|
|
 |
| by
David Lynch, Wine Director
|
|
THIS MONTH
TOSCANA
If there's one region of Italy that Americans feel comfortable
with, it's Tuscany. Given how many people have warmed themselves
under the Tuscan sun, so to speak, it's only natural that they
gravitate to the Tuscan section of our 750-selection wine list.
The producer names might not necessarily be familiar, but appellations
such as Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello
di Montalcino are always safe bets, particularly for those who've
traversed their cypress-lined hills.
That said, I'd like to lead you Toscanophiles away from the
Florence-Siena-Montalcino axis and toward Tuscany's Mediterranean
coast, headlined by the star-studded appellation of Bolgheri.
The internationally-styled reds of the Sassicaia, Ornellaia,
and Guado al Tasso estates have turned Bolgheri into perhaps
the most important wine zone in Tuscany-at least in terms of
wine critics and the geeks who heed them. The maritime climate
and sandy soils of Bolgheri have proved hospitable to "international"
varieties such as cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and merlot, and
these days the Tuscan coast is studded with lesser-known but
up-and-coming DOCs such as Candia dei Colli Apuani (near the
Apuan Alps that connect Tuscany and Liguria) and especially
Val di Cornia (centered around the southern coast town of Suvereto),
where a number of producers-including the critically acclaimed
boutique winery called Tua Rita-are turning out reds to rival
the big boys of Bolgheri.
The Tuscan coast is also home to one of Italy's great indigenous
white varieties: vermentino. With a garlicky, herb-tinged zuppa
di pesce, there may be no better white, and the one below is
a great introduction to the Mediterranean-flavored variety.
Bolgheri Vermentino, Tenuta Guado al Tasso
2001
From the Antinori family's Guado al Tasso property in Bolgheri,
this spicy, refreshing, herbaceous white is a great introduction
to the vermentino grape, which also shines in neighboring Liguria
and Sardinia. The Guado al Tasso version offers trademark aromas
of sage, fennel, and mint and a brisk acidic finish. Mario has
been offering a terrific dish of halibut poached in olive oil,
dressed with chopped fennel, olives, and sungold tomatoes, and
I can't think of a better wine to go with it.
Montepeloso Val di Cornia Rosso 2000
Here's a silky take on sangiovese from the fast-rising wine
town of Suvereto, where a number of young wineries are using
sangiovese, merlot, and cabernet to create a host of noteworthy
wines. Like sangioveses from nearby Scansano, this one is softly
contoured and berry-scented, a great choice for spicy pastas
like our Bucatini all'Amatriciana.
For more on Tuscan wines, check out our new book,
Vino Italiano, just published by Clarkson-Potter.
Below is an added Travel piece on Toscana.
Unlike, say, the Napa Valley, Italy is not typically the kind
of place where you can pull up to a winery’s tasting room, sample
a few glasses of wine, then pick up a souvenir t-shirt or corkscrew
on the way out. Visiting Italian wineries tends to be a more
personal, private affair, and it usually requires that you phone
in advance for an appointment.
At the same time, there are myriad Italian wineries to which
a restaurant, agriturismo (b&b), or both are part of the package.
And Tuscany is particularly well-stocked with these. Throughout
Tuscany’s wine country, winery restaurants abound.
Your first stop might be the city of Florence itself, where
there are two excellent wine bar/canteens, or cantinette, run
by two well-known wine estates. The best-known is the stylish
Cantinetta Antinori (Palazzo Antinori; 055-292-234), where the
menu can actually stand up to wines like Solaia and Tignanello,
while across town the Chianti producer Castello di Verrazzano
showcases its wines alongside bruschette, salumi and other nibbles
at its homey Cantinetta Verrazzano (Via dei Tavolini; 055-268-590).
Head south out of Florence into Chianti Classico country and
you’ve got several options for woodsy, hearty Tuscan meals in
some striking winery settings. In Greve is the grand Castello
Vicchiomaggio (055-854-079), while in Gaiole are two of the
more historic properties in Chianti, Badia a Coltibuono (0577-749-498),
and Castello di Brolio (0577-7301). These are three of the most
beautiful wineries in Tuscany, all boasting incredible Medieval
architecture.
In Montepulciano, options are slightly more limited, though
top-dog winery Avignonesi delivers with a slick on-site restaurant
(0578-757-872). Further south in the legendary village of Montalcino,
the headliner is the lavish, American-owned Castello Banfi (0577-840-111),
where you can not only eat but tour their glassware museum and,
in true American style, gift shop. Also notable in Montalcino
is the restaurant at the Poggio Antico winery. Further afield,
in the little town of Cacina, is the Elisabetta winery, home
to both a hotel and restaurant, not far from the coast. Not
only can you taste good wines here (including a sangiovese-merlot-cabernet
blend called "Brunetti"), but you can fortify yourself for a
visit to nearby wine-mecca Bolgheri, home to legends such as
Sassicaia and Ornellaia.
|
| |
 |
To
purchase any of these wines, visit
Italian Wine Merchants online or in
New York City, just off Union Square! |
|
| |
| |
| |
|
|
