In selecting wines to drink from the Veneto, there are a few easily recognizable names that consumers tend to flock to; such as Amarone della Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso and Soave Classico. While these wines are delicious in their own right, there are far more interesting libations that the region has to offer, especially for a more modern palate. While the more famous styles are generally produced in the western end of Veneto, a small commune in the foothills just above Vicenza in eastern Veneto called Breganze produces some of the most interesting modern wines available on the market today.
Being at comparable latitude with Bordeaux, it is not entirely surprising that the native Bordeaux varietals Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon flourish when grown in the calcareous clay and gravel soil of the region, but there is one producer that has really put the region on the map, and created unbelievably complex wines. Fausto Maculan was quite literally born into wine, and at the age of 13 he began his career working at the family winery. In coming into adulthood, he took over viticulture and commercial control of the family business, and crafted a collection of white, red and dessert wines that are absolutely phenomenal.
When enjoying Baccala alla Vicentina, a delicious salt cod antipasti that represents a classic aspect of the cuisine of Vicenza, I would be thrilled to enjoy Maculan’s “Pino and Toi,” or “Bidibi,” both modern style blends which delicately use French oak to add richness and depth to the Tocai Friulano (or to use the local term, for the grape, “Tai”) based wines which have a cloud like, enveloping minerality on the palate and use Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon respectively to add aromatics and fruit. The zesty acidity of these wine would be the perfect companion for the rich salty Baccala, but if you prefer a lighter white wine, you might also want to try Breganze Vespaiolo, a light, mineral style with beautiful plush melon fruit on the palate. A particularly delicious producer of the style is Contra Soarda, whose wines are very affordable, but very satisfying.
For a truly special experience, treat yourself to one of Maculan’s Bordeaux style reds, and be prepared to be amazed. A particular favorite, is the 1989 vintage of “Ferrata,” a wine composed of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, which has aged beautifully, and a well preserved bottle would rival comparable styles from anywhere in the world. Its slightly rusty color is indicative of its elegant finish, while it maintains the tannin and acidity of truly great Bordeaux. It is subdued enough to pair with lighter dishes, even heartier seafood like the Baccala alla Vincentina, but the true perfect pairing for this wine is the Grilled Veal Chop with Chanterelles and Black Truffle Vinaigrette. The rich earthy tannins of the wine will truly make the Chanterelles and Black Truffles sing, while the delicate flavors of the perfectly grilled veal will be amplified and truly enjoyed with the wines intense red fruit and elegant acidity.
While all of Maculan’s wines are fantastic, one of his simplest styles is his most profound, his delicious late harvest Moscato, “Dindarello.” Made with 100% Moscato Fior d’Arancio, which translates to Moscato of orange blossoms, is so named for its delicately tangy citrus notes, and is the perfect refreshing desert wine to finish any meal. A very versatile dessert wine, this would go well with almost anything, but would be particularly phenomenal with Babbo’s famous Olive Oil Rosemary Cake, or a recent addition to the dessert menu, the Peach Budino, and soft pudding like cake made with peaches and walnuts, and served with cream flavored gelato.
Whether it be white, red, or dessert wine, be sure to treat yourself to one of Maculan’s treasures, and see what Breganze has to offer!
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